Chasis Set Up
​and Scaling

Setups are track specific and driving-style specific for your needs. Setup Includes: ride height, caster, camber, toe, and corner weights.

1986 Tiga S2000

Pre-Race Inspection

Pre-race maintenance includes brake and hub inspections, chassis component inspections, nut and bolt inspection, all fluids changed. 

Maintenance

• Race prepped front hubs.
• Power steering rack de-powering conversions.
  
• Rear caliper e-brake removal.

Period correct Zink Super Vee

Understanding Proper Race Prep

 A race car which has been properly prepared in the shop has many advantages but some racers tend to overlook this very important element of racing.  It's far too common to see racers wash dirt from the previous race from the car, load it on the trailer and drive off to the next race.  Let's look for a moment at what happens when a car is not properly prepared. 

​The first clue is usually the first session on track when something does not perform correctly.  This may mean an early retirement from the session, sometimes an embarrassing flat tow back to the paddock and then a frantic spurt of work to get the car ready for the next session.  This process sometimes snowballs and continues throughout the weekend with frustrating results.  Such race weekends are rarely either successful or enjoyable. 

A secondary result of improper prep is the additional parts and supplies which are inevitably used or used up.  These can be as minor as gasket sealer and safety wire or more expensive, such as brake pads, wheel bearings or ring-and-pinion assemblies.

 It should be obvious that a third result is that a driver's finishing position will be adversely affected by the poor performance of the car.  Considering all these negative attributes, it's a mystery why so many choose to ignore proper attention to all the details on a race car which can ruin a weekend.

The Race Prep Checklist:

1. Chassis: Prepare it so it doesn’t break. Disassemble and crack-check if possible; at least clean it thoroughly and inspect the stress points and welds. Replace excessively worn parts. Do the research on the weak links in the system that broke “in-period.” Use your head on anticipating weak points and get advice from others racing similar cars or shops specializing in race prep, especially in vintage racing; they will keep it period authentic – safe yet quick.
2. Engine and Drivetrain: There is more than one story about dragging that old car out of the barn and racing it for five years with no maintenance, but … the safe path is to completely check out and probably rebuild the whole drivetrain-replace the stress and wear points like U-joint crosses and stub axles.
3. Suspension and Brakes: After you have prepared all the components so they do not break, have it set up by a professional/vintage race car shop. Very good street-performance brake linings and high boiling point fresh fluid are a must.
4. Safety: The minimum requirements are a rollover bar, seat belts, shoulder harness and an in-car fire extinguisher. Check with the clubs you plan to race with for their requirements, and on type and age of equipment. Recommended is a fuel cell and an in-car fire system with multi-extinguisher nozzles with automatic and manual triggers. Driver equipment is considered elsewhere in this article.
5. Appearance: Last but not least, make it look good. Not new. Good! Some of the best vintage cars are raced in the 20-year-old livery in which they originally found glory.

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